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Alone on Annapurna SouthPeople say that Annapurna is dangerous from the north, dangerous and difficult from the northwest, and steep, dangerous, and difficult from the south. My first experience with Annapurna was in the autumn of 2008, when I tried to climb the northwest face in alpine style. After five days of climbing, Petr Masek, Martin Minarik, and I reached 7,500 meters. Strong wind, freezing cold, and heavy snowfall during our summit push drove us down. Nobody wanted to try again. |
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Russian climbers Mikhail Mikhailov and Alexander Ruchkin had journeyed to Sichuan, China, last spring hoping to climb Mount Edgar (a.k.a. E Gongga, 6,618m/21,713') — the same peak where Americans Jonny Copp, Micah Dash, and Wade Johnson would lose their lives in an avalanche just a few weeks later. In miserable weather, the Russian climbers waited two weeks without even seeing their target face. But during an acclimatization hike in a neighboring valley, the clouds suddenly parted to reveal a stunning granite pillar on unnamed Peak 6,134m. The Russians quickly switched plans, and when the gloomy weather cleared in mid-May, they raced up that pillar to bag the 20,125-foot virgin peak.